Walking the Canal Du Midi

Starting the walk....


So you would like to walk beside the Canal du Midi. Great choice.
This Canal is a lovely unhurried and quiet walk with thousands of plane trees along the banks providing shade in the heat of the day and reflections in the water, whilst you walk past 100 locks ,on natural or gravel paths through very interesting towns between Toulouse and the second oldest town in France namely Agde.
Inspiration for this walk was fuelled by watching the popular
English seafood chef , Rick Stein's BBC television series "
French Odyssey. Website http://www.rickstein.com/
The music from the series was very "catchy" and available direct from Crocodile Music at :
http://www.crocodilemusic.com/ or at the bottom of this site.
A good way to travel to Toulouse from Paris is by TGV (French Fast Train 300kph)
Tickets may be purchased online up to 2 months before travel date at http://www.voyages-sncf.com/ and tickets printed on your home computer.
Flights from Australia to Paris ,check out Flight Centre on http://www.flightcentre.com.au/
Purchase Lonely Planet "France" or checkout upgrades at: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/
Toulouse has much to offer the visitor with its monuments ,churches and with a big "Market" day on Sundays.

Day 1



Day 1 : Toulouse to Bonneville: (19kms)
The walk from Toulouse to Bonneville becomes quieter as you walk further away from the "hustle & bustle" of the city to the less populated areas. The only noise you hear is the odd "Noddy" boat or a large "tourist" barge making their way up or down river.
On the walk ,keep your eyes open for the old lockkeepers house that is actually a "Diner", at Castelran, great place to sip a "hot"chocolate and get a bite to eat, whilst watching the action on the canal. They may also offer you a bed for the night. Interesting!!
At Bonneville there is a motel with large restaurant .

Day 2


Day 2: Bonneville to Villefranche de Lauragais:
After a day's walking 19kms beside the canal you turn left for 3 kms to Villefranche de Lauragais , the home of authentic Languedoc "Cassoulet", that very filling recipe famous in this region-need a good "red" to go with your meal.
Accommodation was at the Hotel de la France on 106 Rue de la Republique- old, but very warm and friendly.

Day 3


Day 3: Villefranche de lauragais to Labastide d'Anjou:
After this walk it is "drinks" at the bar on the canal at Selga. Very refreshing!
There is basic accommodation at Labastide d'Anjou in the form of Hostellerie le Grilladou .
The "renovations" are taking 4 years to finish.
Thought a truck was on fire in town ,but it turned out to be "Pizza-a-Go-Go," namely
a pizza takeaway van, commencing cooking for the evening's trade-----can only be in France.

Day 4


Day 4 : Labastide d'Anjou to Castelnaudary: (Capital of "Cassoulet").
Pass interesting 'double' locks today on the walk.
Nice walk to lovely old Port town of Castelnaudary. Grand Bassian was so old.
Don't forget to visit the old churches.
Castelnaudary is a base for the "Foreign Legion"-thought you would like to know that-classified!
Rested at Hotel du Centre .Book on http://www.hotel-centre.lauragais.com/.
Hotel has large restaurant attached to it.
Good food for lunch time, is at a little restaurant on lower side of Hotel.
You could check out the Hotel du Canal as you enter the town. Was "complet" when we arrived.

Day 5


Day 5: Castelnaudary to Carcassonne:
Go on , enjoy a "rest" day ,you deserve it.
Visit to the Medieval Cite in Carcassonne is a "must see". Sorry about the hordes of "Tourists".
Saturday markets in the main town are interesting and vibrant ( anyone wanting a "live" duck" or "fresh" vegetables?)
Book a night at "La divine Comedie" restaurant at 29 Boulevard Jean Jaures-you won't be disappointed, however booking in advance is essential. Great range of "Pizzas, great food and good wines of the region".
Post office has nice set of cards & large stamps of the "Canal du Midi" on sale.

Day 6


Day 6: Carcassonne to Marseillette:
On the way ,you pass Trebes , a little port town where boat hire is the norm. Take a coffee break, on the canal edge at Trebes and watch the fun as the novice sailors try to navigate their hire craft for the first time, out into the canal and down to the first lock - priceless- everybody seems
to be the "Captain", no first mates on board!

Stay at the small family-run hotel "La Muscadelle", just 150m from the lock gates of
Marseillette. Very friendly.

Day 7


Day 7 : Marseillette to Homps: (19kms)

Stayed in Homps at Relais des Chevaliers de Malte.
Huge rooms and plenty for breakfast
including creamy "homemade" yogurts and
thick rich jams. Better get walking after that
or you could book an inexpensive 2 hour cruise
on the solid boat "Saint Ferreol" leaving from
Port d'Homps . Tickets at Visitors Centre.

Day 8


Day 8: Homps to Ventenac: (14kms)
Lovely walking section today, visit Argen & port,
then lunch at La Redorte. A little sunny Port.
You will walk through Paraza today.
Stop at the little port cafe for drinks. Check at
http://www.cafeduport.com/ Lovely setting.
Ventenac has not much accommodation.
Rest at "Chambre d'hote Blu Soleil, just at the bridge.
Only a few chambres -you will need to book on http://dominique.meert.free.fr/soleilsbleus/
then click on the window-yes on the window.
Town has 2 restaurants and large wine cellar/ tourist office beside the canal. Dinner at
"Le Grilladou" is very enjoyable with a"red" or "white" from the region. Need GPS to get home?

Day 9


Day 9: Ventenac to Capestang:
Walk through Le Somail -you could stop here for the night.
Looks like a lovely town-at least, enjoy a coffee and cake at Cafe Resto and buy some local produce or postcards from the "floating Epicurie" barge .
Very colourful & interesting "shop" indeed.
Canal has many turns in it (like a snake) to Capestang:
Stayed at Chambre at Ainhoa, on Rue Republic next to the Marie. Other accommodation,
Check at tourist office.

Day 10


Day 10: Capestang to Beziers :

Fun to walk through the 173 metre "Malpas Tunnel"-seems to have mud walls-very dark.
The 8 ecluses of Fonseranes, just out of Beziers is a "marvel" of engineering. Great sight with a large barge, "Clair de Lune" moving through the "locks". Visit www.bargeclairdelune.com/
Book in advance for the Hotel des Poetes at Beziers on http://www.hoteldespoetes.net/
This lovely hotel won't disappoint you with its comfortable and clean rooms, overlooking the
gardens of the park. Very handy to town.
Beziers hosts a big "general " market day on Friday.

Day 11


Day 11: Beziers to Agde:
OK , get out the hat & sunscreen , as there is little shade on the walk
today. Long and very tiresome-"hitch"a boat ride for the last kms!
Check out the famous round lock with 3 "exits" at Agde.
Last day of the walk is exciting to say the least.
Wonderful achievement having walked 240kms & past 100 locks.
Rest up at Hotel Lagaliote on the river's edge-request a "river view" room on http://www.lagaliote.fr/ The hotel has an excellent restaurant to partake of the regional food and wine. Visit the Cathedral (built from Lava rock).
Watch the "Boat jousting " ,from your hotel window, as the men on boats compete against each other on a Saturday afternoon.

Once "rested" after the main walk , take a walk to the beach at Le Grace d 'Agde or
possibly walk to Cap d'Agde (18kms) and enjoy the sun and sand between the toes.
The section from Agde to Sete may be walked , but there is no trees for shade and you walk along large sections of beach. Review the following site for more details :

Tips


Learn some French...even a little Bonjour or merci will go down very well with the French..
and they respect you for trying.

Get fit before you go on the walk -plenty of walking each day is better than a walk a short time before your travel date.

Take good walking boots/shoes. Must be well worn in or you face plenty of blisters.

On the walk ,check with each lockkeeper (if one is about) at which side of the Canal you should be walking? Sounds silly -but not when a path stops abruptly on one side and there is no bridge in sight and you have to walk back.........not pretty.
Best time to walk is May/June or September. July & Aug are too hot & crowded (French hols).
The biking book by Philippe Calas is very good for planning, even for walking.

Highlights

To finish the 240km walk on the canal "towpaths"---Congratulations.

To see the sunlight , morning mist or rain coming through the "plane"trees on the canal.

To visit the very old sites and check out the interesting history of France.

To experience the "peace and quiet " of rural France.

To hear the birds in the tall trees and the boats on the canal.

To not see any "advertising" on this UNESCO classified World Monument

To "hitch" a short ride between locks to enjoy the boating experience (at least once).

To speak to the locals, so passionate about who will win the Rugby this year.

Other Experiences


After this walk you may be interested in the following:
Canal Garonne-Walking from Bordeaux to Toulouse -Ten days staying at farms, Chateau, hotels and B&Bs.
Check with French Travel Connection on:
for "the France you never knew". They have
accommodation, canal boats, sightseeing, car hire
and much more on offer.

Bike your way from Bordeaux to Sete --check bike books by Philippe Calas -there are 2 books needed to cover this route.

Do the Tarn Gorge , The Pyrenees , Mont Blanc or Way of St James to Santiago ( in Spain)

Up to you!! Don't forget to smile and look back every now & again. Good walking!!!